National Parks of Mozambique

During Mozambique's civil upheaval, large-scale organized poaching systematically removed almost all big game from the bush. I've driven the length and breadth of Mozambique through seemingly pristine environments without spotting anything bigger than rabbits and rats, even at night. Mozambicans were reduced to hunter-gatherer status and in some areas even locusts and ants were harvested almost to extinction.

Birdlife has recovered to some extent but only the most remote areas offer the chance to view the 'Big Five' (on foot and with experienced guides, as wildlife is still persecuted by poachers from as far afield as Somalia).

Officially, the Mozambican government recognises wildlife's tourist potential, but legislation hasn't kept pace with developments and some colourful characters have been associated with failed projects that always seemed too detached from reality to succeed.

The late Earl J. Blanchard was feted by the authorities despite his Maputo Elephant Reserve project being ridiculed by respected environmentalists. Often, legitimate developers are sidelined by million-dollar-slinging 'cowboys'. Consequently even Mozambique's flagship NP, Gorongosa, can only offer a simple campsite with ablutions.

At Gorongosa, concessionaires are building a lodge at Bue Maria, but it's not yet finished. A fairly extensive network of roads has been re-opened but the Reserve can become inaccessible during the December to May wet season. There's a fair amount of game (a few lion and several small elephant herds) but the variety and beauty of the habitat and birds are the real attractions.

Maputo Elephant Reserve harbours around 400 elephants, which migrate between South Africa and Mozambique through rolling dune country. The birdlife is varied and abundant, but infrastructure is minimal and roads are very poor - 4x4 is essential. Camping is allowed at Ponta Milibangalala and Ponta Dobela, where there are wells, but the water needs purifying before drinking.